Celebrate and explore human movement in this multi-episode series featuring dynamic people who use their bodies and minds to meet the challenges of a world in constant motion.
In this episode, host Matt Chan and wife Cherie learn more about the life of professional big-wave surfer Shane Dorian. First stop: CrossFit Kona. Dorian says his CrossFit training helps him in the ocean.
“Body mechanics are super important in big-wave surfing for sure,” he says. “If your form is bad, if your timing is off, you’re gonna fall, and if you fall there’s serious consequences to that.”
Next up, the Chans take to the ocean for some cliff jumping and surfing. In admiration of Dorian’s spirit, Matt says the surfer lives his life in “a state of constant flux.”
“Whether he’s off to the far reaches of the globe chasing the next monster wave, hunting boar in his own backyard, or just goofing off with his friends and family, Shane relies on his training, natural athletic ability and pure instinct to see him through whatever life may throw his way,” Chan explains.
In Episode 2, inFlux trades surf for snow in Alaska.
Video by Jason Smith and Carey Peterson.
12min 1sec
Additional reading: Losing Control, Winning a Medal by Andréa Maria Cecil, published Aug. 10, 2012.
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